Bristol's Garden Vineyards: Grape-Treading Grapes in Urban Spaces

Every quarter of an hour or so, an ageing diesel-powered train arrives at a spray-painted station. Close by, a police siren pierces the almost continuous traffic drone. Daily travelers rush by falling apart, ivy-draped fencing panels as storm clouds gather.

It is perhaps the last place you expect to find a perfectly formed vineyard. But James Bayliss-Smith has cultivated 40 mature vines heavy with plump mauve grapes on a rambling garden plot sandwiched between a row of 1930s houses and a commuter railway just above the city downtown.

"I've noticed individuals hiding illegal substances or other items in those bushes," states the grower. "Yet you just get on with it ... and keep tending to your grapevines."

The cameraman, 46, a filmmaker who also has a fermented beverage company, is not the only urban winemaker. He has pulled together a informal group of cultivators who produce vintage from four hidden city grape gardens nestled in back gardens and community plots throughout the city. It is sufficiently underground to have an formal title so far, but the group's WhatsApp group is called Grape Expectations.

Urban Vineyards Around the World

To date, the grower's plot is the sole location registered in the City Vineyard Network's upcoming global directory, which features more famous urban wineries such as the 1,800 vines on the hillsides of Paris's historic Montmartre area and more than three thousand vines overlooking and inside the Italian city. Based in Italy non-profit association is at the vanguard of a initiative reviving city vineyards in traditional winemaking countries, but has identified them all over the world, including cities in East Asia, Bangladesh and Uzbekistan.

"Vineyards assist cities remain greener and ecologically varied. They protect land from construction by creating permanent, yielding farming plots within urban environments," says the organization's leader.

Like all wines, those created in cities are a result of the earth the plants thrive in, the vagaries of the weather and the individuals who care for the grapes. "Each vintage represents the charm, local spirit, environment and history of a urban center," notes the spokesperson.

Mystery Eastern European Variety

Back in Bristol, Bayliss-Smith is in a race against time to harvest the grapevines he cultivated from a plant abandoned in his allotment by a Eastern European household. Should the rain arrives, then the birds may take advantage to attack once more. "This is the enigmatic Polish grape," he comments, as he removes bruised and rotten grapes from the shimmering bunches. "We don't really know what variety they are, but they are certainly disease-resistant. In contrast to premium grapes – Burgundy grapes, Chardonnay and other famous European varieties – you don't have to spray them with pesticides ... this could be a unique cultivar that was developed by the Eastern Bloc."

Group Efforts Throughout Bristol

The other members of the collective are additionally making the most of bright periods between bursts of fall precipitation. On the terrace overlooking Bristol's glistening waterfront, where historic trading ships once bobbed with barrels of vintage from France and Spain, one cultivator is harvesting her dark berries from about fifty plants. "I adore the aroma of the grapevines. The scent is so evocative," she remarks, pausing with a container of grapes resting on her arm. "It's the scent of southern France when you roll down the vehicle windows on holiday."

The humanitarian worker, fifty-two, who has devoted more than two decades working for charitable groups in war-torn regions, unexpectedly took over the vineyard when she returned to the UK from Kenya with her household in recent years. She experienced an strong responsibility to maintain the grapevines in the yard of their new home. "This plot has previously endured three different owners," she explains. "I deeply appreciate the idea of natural stewardship – of handing this down to someone else so they keep cultivating from the soil."

Sloping Vineyards and Traditional Production

A short walk away, the remaining cultivators of the group are busily laboring on the precipitous slopes of Avon Gorge. Jo Scofield has cultivated more than one hundred fifty vines perched on terraces in her expansive property, which tumbles down towards the muddy local waterway. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she says, indicating the interwoven grape garden. "They can't believe they are viewing grapevine lines in a urban neighborhood."

Currently, Scofield, 60, is picking clusters of dusty purple Rondo grapes from rows of plants arranged along the hillside with the help of her daughter, Luca. The conservationist, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has worked on Netflix's nature programming and television network's Gardeners' World, was inspired to cultivate vines after seeing her neighbour's grapevines. She has learned that hobbyists can produce interesting, enjoyable natural wine, which can command prices of upwards of £7 a glass in the growing number of establishments focusing on low-processing vintages. "It is deeply rewarding that you can truly create good, natural wine," she states. "It is quite fashionable, but really it's reviving an old way of making vintage."

"When I tread the fruit, the various natural microorganisms are released from the surfaces and enter the liquid," says Scofield, ankle deep in a container of tiny stems, pips and crimson juice. "This represents how vintages were historically produced, but commercial producers add sulphur [dioxide] to kill the wild yeast and then incorporate a commercially produced culture."

Difficult Conditions and Creative Solutions

In the immediate vicinity sprightly retiree another cultivator, who inspired Scofield to establish her grapevines, has gathered his companions to pick white wine varieties from one hundred plants he has arranged precisely across multiple levels. Reeve, a northern English PE teacher who worked at Bristol University developed a passion for viticulture on regular visits to France. But it is a difficult task to grow Chardonnay grapes in the humidity of the gorge, with cooling tides moving through from the nearby estuary. "I wanted to make French-style vintages here, which is somewhat ambitious," says the retiree with a smile. "Chardonnay is slow-maturing and very sensitive to fungal infections."

"My goal was creating European-style vintages in this environment, which is a bit bonkers"

The temperamental local weather is not the only problem encountered by grape cultivators. Reeve has been compelled to install a fence on

Collin Wolf
Collin Wolf

Lena ist eine leidenschaftliche Autorin und Philosophin, die sich auf Alltagsphilosophie und persönliche Entwicklung spezialisiert hat.